Istanbul has become a lot more expensive in recent times. I used to think of it as a cheap place to hang out for a few days, but not now. Perhaps it's a result of the introduction of the 'Yeni Lira' or New Lira, which is basically the same as the old lira but with all the zeros chopped off. One new lira is equal to a million old ones. I've been around a few places where the currency has changed and it appears to be a general rule that prices are rounded up, never down. I remember my shock in 1972 when 'penny caramels' started to cost half a new penny. That was one-and-a-quarter old pennies, a very significant difference in my opinion. It wasn't long before the price went up to one new penny, either. So, maybe that's why Istanbul is more expensive nowadays. It could, of course, also be in anticipation of joining the EU at some stage in the near (or not so near, if the Greek Cypriots have their way) future - get the prices up to the same level as the neighbours.
Whatever, it's still an easy city to do on the cheap if you know a few things, and this is where we head back in towards the topic of the present recipe. But not just yet. I still have to mention a few of the things you have to know for getting around Istanbul on the cheap. It seems only fair, now that I've started. One of the main things to know is that public transport is cheap. Never take a taxi - it will probably cost you a whole day's spending money. Instead, use the metro, trams and buses. They all operate on a system where you buy tokens from a kiosk and it's dead easy to figure out. The metro and trams take the same tokens. Here's an example: from the airport to the centre costs about 25 Yeni Lira, minimum, in a taxi. The airport shuttle bus costs 8, but that's a sting too, because you generally have to get a tram after that and there are usually loads of touts hanging around the bus stop waiting to hassle you. From the airport terminal building you can get a metro to a place called Zeiytunburnu, where the city centre tramline starts. The tram follows the shore so if you want to go up to the new city centre you have to change to the tunel, which is a fantastic underground train-on-a-rope. Using all three forms of transport costs only about 3 and a half Yeni Lira altogether -way to go. Now, that leaves you with cash to spend on something for lunch and here were getting closer to the recipe.
There are lots of cheap cafes, especially in the new centre, where you join a conveyor belt system and load up your tray with all sorts of tasty things. Down around Sultan Ahmed, where the Blue Mosque, the Haigha Sofia and a bunch of other things are, it's not so cheap, however. This is rip-off-the-tourist country, and the thing to do here, especially if you stay in the area (and why not? It's very picturesque), is to find a small supermarket sharpish, get your supplies there and sit in the sun, on the edge of a fountain, saying 'No, thank you' to the postcard sellers and having lunch. Even the smallest supermarkets usually have a choice of delicious olives, a few fresh fruits and vegetables and a good stock of little tubs in the cooler - things like humus, patlican salatasi, yoghurt and this lovely lentil pate. See? Got there in the end!
Put the lentils and water into a pot and bring to the boil. Skim off any froth that appears and reduce the heat to a very gentle simmer. Cook for about half an hour with the pan partially covered. While the lentils are cooking, prepare the other ingredients.
Finely chop the parsley, garlic and jalapeno peppers. Mix with all the remaining ingredients and leave aside until the lentils are cooked. When the lentils are ready they will resemble a thick soup. Turn off the heat and leave to cool for a little while before adding the other ingredients. Stir well and add salt to taste. Pour the mixture into a bowl and leave to cool. Chill before serving.
